Your Weekly Guide to Life in Midcoast Maine

Chemistry in a cone

TEXT AND PHOTOGRAPHY
BY ROBIN KELLEY

After 33 years in the business, John Ascrizzi has the scoop on what it takes to make great ice cream.

John’s Ice Cream Factory, located on Route 3 in Liberty, boasts naturally flavored, handmade, creamy ice cream loaded with fresh ingredients.

Ascrizzi has the chemistry of ice cream down to a science, from correct freezing and scooping temperatures, to the amount of sugar and air needed, to the processes that keep the product smooth, creamy and deliciously addictive.

The science is knowing how much of each ingredient to add, how each ingredient will react to others, how much air is needed and what amount will affect the finished product.

This ice cream genius, now infatuated with the frozen treat, says he once had other plans for his life, “Growing up, I really thought I was going to be making raviolis, not ice cream,” he said.

Ascrizzi’s father’s livelihood came from making homemade ravioli and macaroni in Brooklyn, N.Y. His father retired from the ravioli business and later the family moved to Florida, where Ascrizzi’s older sister and her husband bought an ice cream franchise. Ascrizzi reluctantly entered the ice cream trade at the age of 19, when he was persuaded by his father to help with his sister’s business.

Ascrizzi’s mission in life then was to get out of the ice cream profession and do something else — anything else. But years later, he is still churning and scooping.

He said his curiosity about the history and trivia of ice cream has “kept me going all of these years.”

There are many theories of how ice cream originated. Ascrizzi has read them all, and he has his own theory — “somebody was churning butter in the winter.”

According to the Ice Cream History and Folklore Web site (http://www.foodsciuoguelph.ca/dairyedu/ichist.html), one popular theory tells of Charles I of England hosting a state banquet. His French chef Demirco created a dish that was “cold and resembled fresh fallen snow, but was much creamier and sweeter than any other after-dinner dessert.”

It was said that Charles paid the chef to keep the recipe a secret and to serve it only at royal banquets.

Now, Ascrizzi serves up the treat all day long. This season, he has hired an assistant, Nathan Stumpff, to help keep up with the demand for his product. In three, 12-hour days weekly, Stumpff makes about 200 gallons of ice cream. Because fresh ingredients are used, there are three extra steps to the process, says Ascrizzi.

Vanilla is the fastest-moving flavor. Quadruple chocolate, which sells 12 gallons in three days time, moves very fast, as well.

“With that name, how could it not sell?” asks Ascrizzi.

When asked what his secret is to making a great product, Ascrizzi says, “The secret is, there are no recipes.”

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TALK OF THE TOWN: Waldo County Chemistry in a cone TEXT AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY ROBIN KELLEY After 33 years in the business, John Ascrizzi has the scoop on what it takes to make great ice cream. John’s Ice Cream Factory, located on Route 3 in Liberty, boasts naturally flavored, handmade, creamy ice cream loaded with fresh ingredients. Ascrizzi has the chemistry of ice cream down to a science, from correct freezing and scooping temperatures, to the amount of sugar and air needed, to the processes that keep the product smooth, creamy and deliciously addictive. The science is knowing how much of each ingredient to add, how each ingredient will react to others, how much air is needed and what amount will affect the finished product. This ice cream genius, now infatuated with the frozen treat, says he once had other plans for his life, “Growing up, I really thought I was going to be making raviolis, not ice cream,” he said. Ascrizzi’s father’s livelihood came from making homemade ravioli and macaroni in Brooklyn, N.Y. His father retired from the ravioli business and later the family moved to Florida, where Ascrizzi’s older sister and her husband bought an ice cream franchise. Ascrizzi reluctantly entered the ice cream trade at the age of 19, when he was persuaded by his father to help with his sister’s business. Ascrizzi’s mission in life then was to get out of the ice cream profession and do something else — anything else. But years later, he is still churning and scooping. He said his curiosity about the history and trivia of ice cream has “kept me going all of these years.” There are many theories of how ice cream originated. Ascrizzi has read them all, and he has his own theory — “somebody was churning butter in the winter.” According to the Ice Cream History and Folklore Web site (http://www.foodsciuoguelph.ca/dairyedu/ichist.html), one popular theory tells of Charles I of England hosting a state banquet. His French chef Demirco created a dish that was “cold and resembled fresh fallen snow, but was much creamier and sweeter than any other after-dinner dessert.” It was said that Charles paid the chef to keep the recipe a secret and to serve it only at royal banquets. Now, Ascrizzi serves up the treat all day long. This season, he has hired an assistant, Nathan Stumpff, to help keep up with the demand for his product. In three, 12-hour days weekly, Stumpff makes about 200 gallons of ice cream. Because fresh ingredients are used, there are three extra steps to the process, says Ascrizzi. Vanilla is the fastest-moving flavor. Quadruple chocolate, which sells 12 gallons in three days time, moves very fast, as well. “With that name, how could it not sell?” asks Ascrizzi. When asked what his secret is to making a great product, Ascrizzi says, “The secret is, there are no recipes.” Up close and persnonal •Gear list • Float plan •Kayak rentals TALK OF THE TOWN: Lincoln County • Waldo County • Knox County • OUT AND ABOUT• MOVIE REVIEWS KAYAKING THE MIDCOAST:
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